Today I started by back riveting the trailing edge. I continued setting the rivets by starting in the center and working outward and skipping several then going back and continually splitting the difference until all of them were finally set. It turned out better than I thought it was going to. There is one or two places where the skin is lifted from the other skin and wedge, but you couldn't get a piece of cardstock in it. Considering that I didn't have the ProSeal like called for, I think it was a success. The next step was to roll the leading edge. I was a little nervous because I totally screwed it up on the practice kit. Taking another builder's advice I bought a 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe and a 1 inch PVC pipe. Taking Ellen's advice, I also bought a 3/4 inch PVC pipe which worked out well. The manual recommends starting at the top and working downward and using the 1 1/4 inch pipe, but we never ended up using it. We used the 3/4 inch pipe on the top and center section, and the 1 inch pipe on the bottom. The only thing that concerns me is that towards the bottom of the center and bottom sections is more of a flattened curve as opposed to a continuous one; but I think it has to be that way since the leading edge gets larger as you move to the bottom. The final element of the rudder is the counterweight at the top. Match drilling the skin to the counterweight was more difficult than I expected. I thought that it was going to look a little sloppy, but in the end, it looks pretty good. I should have taken a close up of the leading edge and counterweight, maybe one day I will and post it.
