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Date:  3-18-2018
Number of Hours:  4.00
Manual Reference:  
Brief Description:  Rivet Stiffeners to Skin Part 1

I finished up dimpling the other rudder skin. The two rivets I drill out yesterday still needed to be punched out. Those were longish rivets and they weren't coming out easily. I used a drill guide and a #30 drill as an alignment pin to center it on the hole, then clamped everything down tight. I switched to a #31 drill and drilled down through to the manufactured head. The shank came out pretty easily with a punch. I repeated for the other rivet and put in new rivets.

The next step was to match drill a single hole in the rudder skin at the uper horn. To do that you need to assemble the entire rudder. That a bit of a pain just to match drill a single hole.

The upper rudder horn is where the left and right skin overlay and there are six fastener holes in one skin and four in the other. You need to match drill one hole, but what confuses me is there is an extra hole. The plans are confusing here because it shows five holes on one sheet and six on another. The extra hole is on the skin that ends up under the other skin and nowhere in the plans does it say you need six holes. I'll look further and see if I missed something, but I'll probably fill the lone hole with a flush rivet.

You must also put a slight bend in the trailing edge skin. I have a special tool that does that, but I found it best to do this step before you dimple. I did it after dimpling and it was hard to get past each dimple. The dimples were slightly bent out of shape, so I hit each one of them with the dies again to put them back in to the proper form. Lesson learned: do the edging first.
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Smashed up head gave me problems drilling it out. Used a drill guide to align with hole.

Smashed up head gave me problems drilling it out. Used a drill guide to align with hole.

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Rudder assembled with clekos.  All this just to match drill one hole in the horn.

Rudder assembled with clekos. All this just to match drill one hole in the horn.

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A slight bend is put into the trailing edge skin so it will lay flat after riveting.

A slight bend is put into the trailing edge skin so it will lay flat after riveting.

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