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Date:  4-8-2018
Number of Hours:  5.00
Manual Reference:  
Brief Description:  Rivet Front Spar and End Rib to Skin

I've been hesitant to continue for fear of messing up my so far straight trailing edge. After almost two weeks I'm diving back in and letting the chips fall where they may.

I've kept the steel bar attached to the TE while I worked on the rest of the riveting. A had a small problem with marking up the spar with the bucking bar due to it bouncing around. Doing the riveting solo, it's difficult to divide my attention between the gun and the bar. Sometimes the bar will bounce because I'm concentrating on holding the gun in the proper position. Because of space limitations I can't orient the bucking bar with the center of mass underneath the gun. At the wider portions of the spar I switch to my compact bar and it becomes much easier.

I put some painters tape against the spar and it helped keeping the marks in the primer to a minimum.

After the front spar and end rib riveting was completed I removed the steel bar from the TE and it was perfectly straight. I get home from work too late to use the rivet gun, so I'll have to defer the TE riveting until next weekend.

I also created the templates for checking the rolled leading edge of the rudder. I printed a new copy of the templates (correctly scaled), cut them out and used spray adhesive to attach them to a piece of 1/4 in. thick MDF. The pieces were cut out, shaped and sanded. I'll take the templates to Home Depot to get the proper diameter of PVC tubing for the rolling operation.
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When riveting the bucking bar leave marks.  Painters tape helps mitigate that.

When riveting the bucking bar leave marks. Painters tape helps mitigate that.

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All rivets set except for trailing edge.

All rivets set except for trailing edge.

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Templates made from 1/4 in. thick MDF to check the rolled leading edge of the rudder.

Templates made from 1/4 in. thick MDF to check the rolled leading edge of the rudder.

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