Brief Description: Notching inboard upper and lower skins
My inboard (032) skins go underneath the outboard (025) skins on the upper and lower wing. The overlap of the two is thick at the main spar flange. And in the flap area to prevent rubbing on the top skin, the overlap of the two skins should be removed rearward of the rear spar. On the bottom skin overlap, the flap hinge and flap brace should not have to make a joggle over that thicker area either. 1. Top skin overlap - I notched out the thicker inboard skin. With the two skins clecoed to the wing, mark a fine sharpie line along the edge of the top overlap skin onto the underlying skin from the aft end up to about 1/8 inch from the rear spar. Uncleco and move the outboard top skin out of the way. Use a square and draw a 90 deg cut line parallel to the rear spar and slightly aft of the rear spar (about 1/8 inch or so). Intersect the earlier line you drew. I used my dremel with the thin cutoff wheel and cut the notch out. If you make the sharpie line disappear with the cut, you have created enough clearance (.020") for primer and paint without the two pieces rubbing each other. File a curve into the corner of the two cuts for stress relief with small round file. 2. Top skin main spar overlap. I chose to file a diagonal area according to plans on that one. 3. Bottom skins main spar area overlap. The inboard skin went under the outboard skin here too. I decided I would notch the inboard skin 1 1/2 wide by 1 1/4 down so only the outboard skin rivets to the spar there. The inboard skin begins riveting to the outboard skin starting just below the notch at 1 1/4 inches. This was per older Frank Justice wing instructions. 4. Bottom skin ( flap hinge area) overlap. I notched 5/8"high off the inboard skin where the flap brace and flap hinge would lie along the aft edge of the bottom wing skin so the flap hinge runs nice and flat all along the wing skin with no joggle. File a circular corner for stress relief.
