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Wendells RV-6A
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Date: 9-17-2010
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Number of Hours: 5.00
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Manual Reference: Leading Edge
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Brief Description: Install Leading Edge and Bell Cranks
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The leading edge was relatively easy to install. Getting the bolt holes and rivet holes to match up perfectly was not simple. I used a drift pin into many bolt holes to line up the 3 mating surfaces. On several, I had to lube and tap the bolts into place. No big problem, just angst when you have to tap bolts. I used a #30 drill bit to line up the matching rib flange surfaces to the main spar web holes. Riveting the LP4 pop rivets was easy. The only hard part of riveting through the top of the main ribs, through the main spar web and then through the leading edge rib flange was riveting the 5 AN470 AD4-5 rivets located above where the bellcrank sat. I removed the bellcrank but because the W425 support brackets were already installed and riveted, there was not a lot of room for the rivet gun. Luckily I had an assortment of AD4 rivet sets and ended up using a 6 inch long one for the middle two holes. Then I switched to a short stubby AD4 rivet set for the other rivets in that rib flange. If I had thought about this earlier, I would not have installed the W425 bellcrank support brackets until after riveting was done on that top rib flange. Had to drill out two bad shop head rivets overall.
After much thought, I also decided to replace the outer main rib on the right wing. Much earlier I had installed an inside angle to solve a mis-matched drilling error. However, now, when I contemplate installing the W414 aileron outboard bracket there will be a clearance problem with that insdie angle I have in place. I don't like the options to overcome rivet spacing issues in that critical area. So, I removed that rib, and will prepare another that will not require the inside angle. Pictures later.
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Permanently installed ribs.
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Difficult riveting these 5 due to W425 brackets installed first.
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Removed outer main rib. Repair angle interferes with W414 aileron attach bracket. Buying new rib.
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