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Home of the Spodplane
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Date: 12-23-2015
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Number of Hours: 3.20
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Manual Reference: 13-08/10
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Brief Description: Preparing for lower nose skin
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Sanded the nose gear packing piece to profile. Cut the ends square.
The next step is to just glass over the retracted strut and bottom of the nose. Looking at the gap to be bridged I couldn't help thinking the glass will droop horribly. I looked at some others builder's records of this step, and see the glass drooping horribly, I expect the way it is supposed to. I recently offended another builder with my comments here, and I regret it, as he seemed like a nice bloke and I value the assistance he has given me, so please don't take it as a personal observation if your glass is droopy here...
I packed the gap with plasticine, from Daiso Aerospace, forming a fillet around NG-3 and aft of NG-5.
Cut all the glass for the lower nose skin.
Spend some time contemplating the way the FWD end of NG-30 goes under the level of the foam to get under the slot in F-0 and wonder why it is so. Make a decision and make a tapered ply spacer to fill the hole, and 5-min it in.
I had covered the top of NG-5 with tape, then decide there is no reason not to glass over it, and maybe eliminate the gaps at the side and front, [Timewarp: SIDE gap elimination didn't work]. Ripped off the tape and prepped.
Bunged some foam scraps around MKNG-15A and faired the gap with plasticine.
Agonised for a while about what will happen when the resin hits the plasticine, can't find anything definitive, except one RV builder who claimed the plasticine could not be removed from his MLG intersection fairings. Discount this as the poor fellow seemed to be in shock to be called upon to actually make something for the first time, as his build was coming to a close. :)
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Kindergarten fun-fairings
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Attaching ply packing pieces to NG-30
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Modelling complete.
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