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Bobs Ten
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Date: 2-28-2012
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Number of Hours: 2.00
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Manual Reference: 7-11.1
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Brief Description: Rivet Rudder Trailing Edge
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1400 - 1600
Fabricated a straight edge from 1/8 x 1.5 x 1.5 steel angle, drilling every other hole from trailing edge.
Taped every other rivet into trailing edge. Turned rudder over.
Clecoed trailing edge to steel angle with rivet heads against steel.
Set p-squeezer to squeeze rivets half way.
Starting in the middle, squeezed every tenth rivet, alternating from center, L, R, L, R.
Checked TE to be sure irt was straight.
Starting at middle and alternating, squeezed every third rivet half way.
Checked TE to be sure it was straight.
Repeated above two steps until all rivets showing were squeezed half way.
Removed rudder from steel angle, checking for straighness.
Clecoed steel to TE again but this time, I used the extra piece of VA-140 (from the elevators) as a wedge. Putting the VA-140 on the underside of the steel with the thick edge toward the edge of the TE gives the exact angle of the opposite side skin. I then set the p-squeezer to set the rivets flush with the skin. This was possible because the surface of the skin was parallel with the surface of the VA-140 wedge that I had clecoed to the underside of the steel. It was then a simple task to squeeze every rivet flush with the skin, starting in the middle, and alternating out to the ends.
Next was to remove the clecos and check for straighness. The TE was almost perfectly straight!
I decided to alternate the TE rivets, so I now taped the remaining rivets into their holes with the manufactured heads on side opposite to the first round of rivets.
Using a back rivet plate installed in the work bench, I set each rivet half way, starting from the middle and working out.
The rivets were then set using a 3/4" mushroom set in a 3x gun, against the stationary back rivet plate.
Very pleased with the resulting trailing edge.
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