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MICHAEL'S WEB SITE
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Date: 1-1-2016
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Number of Hours: 0.00
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Manual Reference:
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Brief Description: Rudder mods Static wicks
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For the rudder, I've decided to add static wicks based on Dayton-Granger diagrams shown in image 1. The static wick is Dayton Granger 16165. Also, http://www.myrv10.com/tips/staticwicks/staticwicks.html and
http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/staticwicks.html
"Being as I thought of doing this before I had set a rivet, I've used existing skin holes to use skeleton structure as a doubler. For example, on the rudder I stuck a K2000 and a K1000 nutplate on the rear of the top riband the second stiffener down, so there are a couple of extra AN426AD3rivets in those line of rivets. That way I can unscrew the discharger andreplace it when its time. I didn't like the pop-riveted method that I see on Cessnas when I walk the ramp. After a few years they look like hell becausehalf of them are broken off and need to be replaced. On the elevators I am using the outboard ribs E-903 I think. Using the existing line of rivets.Inboard needs a doubler because there is no structure about 12 inches inboard. I pick up my std build wings and get my demo ride July 15, so I don't know how the 3 on each wing tip will get done. Worried about all that fiberglass. Anyway, for the empennage I figured out how to this and bonding straps really cleanly, using existing holes and only drilling a couple of extra #40 for AN426AD3 rivets."
Put the wicks on the left rudder skin to act as a rudder trim.
Static charge accumulates at the furthest points, preferring sharp corners and edges, so inboard placements wouldn't be effective...put them at the tips or outboard areas.
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