In this work session, I completed match drilling the T-701 Fuel tank skin to the underlying structure. I then completed the countersink of the T-701 tank skin to the T-702 Tank Baffle. This is a really time consuming process to get these parts drilled and countertsunk due to the shear number of rivet holes. For long spells it seemed as if I was endlessly drilling and countersinking.
I then used a scale and a soldering iron to remove the protective blue film from the fuel tank skin along the rivet lines. I eleceted to do this now, because when I did this for the left tank, I elected to disassemble the fuel tank first, I found this method to be a complete waste of time. Instead I removed the excess blue film on the exterior and will remove the film from the interior when I disassemble the tank to debur and dimple it.
Finally I looked to make my final trims to the T-405 angles. Previously I'd been able to evaluate a completed pratice project and noted that a dimple with a properly riveted shop head stood approximately 2/32" tall. This gave me the idea how much (more) I needed to trim down my T-405 angles. I noted how in their current state, matched from the T-410 doubler plates, the angles fit easily into the leading edges of the T-703 fuel Tank ribs. Thus I elected to trim down the upper and lower edges of the angles by approximately 2/32" to fit inside the ribs. I accomplish this I first measured and marked a line approximate 2/32" in from the current edge using a scale and a fine foint sharpie marker. I then used my large belt sander and slowly ground down the angles to my sharpie marks and round the edge. Then I cleaned up the sand paper marks using the scotchbrite wheel. Next to double check my work, I used my Cleaveland Tank Die to dimple the ribs (they will be used on the understructure, while normal dies will be used on the tank skin) and check the angle placement and adequate spacing for the future rivets. Next I have to march and drill the holes for the #30 holes (3/32") for the rivet
