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Date:  6-29-2007
Number of Hours:  2.00
Manual Reference:  6T5-10
Brief Description:  Unclecoe rudder; Trim nose skin, ScotchBrite joint

I removed the clecoes from the nose skin and notice a couple of holes I neglect to drill. So, I put it back together and drilled it. I also noticed one hole on the rear skin that became too large during the original drilling. So I drilled it out with a No. 20 bit to accept an A5 rivet.

Then I disassembled the rudder again, trimmed the nose skin, and deburred the holes.

I trimmed the nose skin per the photo assembly manual and then filed to smooth and eliminate the
"edge texture" caused by the snips. Then I used my Avery double-sided deburr tool to smooth the edges. I hit the sharp corners a lick or two with a file to round the edges. Finally, I ran an Avery edge roller along both long edges to try to improve the joint (after riveting). With hindsight, I probably should have edge rolled the top edge also.

I mostly used two methods to deburr:

1. Rotate a 0.5" drill bit about 1 turn or so in the hole, per the rudder workshop DVD.
2. Slide a flat file along a line of holes a couple of times, as suggest by Photo Assembly Manual.

Because of clearance issues, I used one of the Avery deburr pencil-hook like deburr tools to clean up a few holes.

When I was all done, could really see the virtue of making a deburr tool that was suggested in a Zenith list post a while back. I.e., cut a ~6" piece off a mill file, and then grind to round the end edges and corners. Having a tool like that would reduce the problems of causing unwanted scratches on the surfaces being deburred, and would make it possible to work in more constrained places.. The file method works really well and is very efficient.

After deburing, I used a ScotchBrite pad to prepare the joint areas that I was planning to prime.
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