|
|
|
|
Terrences Web Site
|
Date: 8-7-2010
|
Number of Hours: 2.00
|
Manual Reference: 6-ZU-1-10
|
Brief Description: Left spar cap rivet removal: bottom root
|
|
I did not remove the inboard 6 rivets and rivet no. 10 from the bottom spar cap, so I did so now in preparation for installing the spar root doubler.
I had two rivets seize-up and need to be drilled out. I believe that my holes were drilled a bit too deep, again. I followed my previous procedure to remove these reluctant rivets:
- transfer punch
- drill 1/8"
- drill 5/32" (actually #20 since that is what was handy)
- punch out the rivet
I should have tried punching out after the 1/8" drilling, because the punch seemed to consistently leave a "shell" of the rivet inside the hole after drilling with the #40. I really wish that the 3/16" punches were a true 0.1875" rather than the actual 0.171" .
One other observation. On one of the rivets, I could not hold the punch perfectly normal to the spar cap, and I tried using it at a slight angle. Big mistake. The rivet seized-up and I broke the punch. Fortunately, I had a spare. But it may be that failure to hold the rivet gun parallel and centered to the hole is a factor in rivets seizing-up.
Post Script. when looking at the spar the next day, I noticed that I had dinged the bottom spar cap and the web with the rivet gun punch while removing rivet no. 10. Using a rotary file, I smoothed out the ding in the spar cap. The ding in the web is right at top hole where the nose rib angle attaches to the web, I will just flatten it enough to rivet it stongly tot he nose rib angle and, I believe that should take care of the problem.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Copyright © 2001-2024 Matronics. All Rights Reserved.
|
