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Date:  3-4-2010
Number of Hours:  1.00
Manual Reference:  None
Brief Description:  Bend L-angles & Z-angles 3/4

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5. Use a ratchet bar or screw bar clamp to hold a metal yearstick ~1/4" from the edge of the straight edge. This will hold the straight edge tight against the base metal and the table top.

6. Score the base metal ~7 times, then move the yard stick to the next 18" section.

7. When the entire length has been scored, break the metal at the score:

8. Bend the metal down in 3 passes~20°, ~70°, and 90°, using an ~10" piece of 2x4 scrap to hold the base metal tight to the table top while I push down on the strip with a gloved hand. Then upon bending the metal back, the strip usually separated easily from the base metal.

9. The rough edge from the cutting is most easily deburred after bending into an angle.


Construction of Craig Payne's angle bender (see Zenair News #169.)

The bender consists of 3 parts, two wooden brake dies and the triangular "pusher." In my mod of Craig's original design, I cut all 3 pieces from a single 2x4x12 by making 4 cuts on a table saw. Fig. A3 shows the cut pattern and the sequence of the cuts. If one is just going to make L-angles, skip cuts 1 & 4. Those cuts are necessary to allow the extra bend to form a Z-angle. There is a tendency for the 2x4 to raise up above the table top when making the cuts. Some sort of mechanical hold down mechanism would be good. Be very careful when making cut 4, because cutting too deeply will weaken the brake. Sand one of the bottom corners of the pusher piece to break that angle to help ensure that the bend angle radius is >= 0.125". Try to get the straightest possible 2x4 to make it easier to cut on the table saw.


Setup procedure:

1. Drill (~3/32") pilot holes & countersink for the screws every ~1' top to bottom in the trapezoidal and angular brake pieces (See Fig. B3 for orientation.)
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