Back Riveted rudder trailing edge per instructions. Used the Avery back rivet set to partially set the shop heads. Couldn't find anywhere on line a description of the "dimpled" set the instructions refer to. Worked well, except had to be real careful turning the set from rivet-parallel to skin parallel during the setting to keep from hitting the skin. Turned skin over and used the flush swivel set on the manufactured heads to finish the setting. Finally, hit the shop heads one last time with the flush set just to ensure the surface was as smooth as could be. Throughout, I kept 30 - 40 psi on the regulator. Also, rolled the leading edge using a 1" thick walled PVC pipe. It was very tough to roll, but I managed. Several of the holes also became stretched during the initial clecoing, but were mostly fixed upon drilling out to #30. Decided to uncleco to debur, which was a mistake, as now I stretched a couple of holes a little at the final size. Deburred and with Penny's help re-clecoed. BIG LESSON LEARNED -- must ensure joint is compressed completely prior to pop-riveting the rolled edge. Didn't do this on the first attempt and since the joint was upside down to me, didn't realize it until every rivet was in...and wrong...Nearly every rivet had to be drilled out and replaced (see 12 Dec 04 entry).
