I complied with the New Service Bulletin SB 08-6-1 today. Fortunately I don't have the empannage attached (paint prep) so there was less disassembly to perform. Only needd to remove the elevator trim servo tray, and then remove all of the rivets from the upper deck. I used a method suggested by Ed Hayden. !st center drill #40 the rivet to just below the surface of the material (skin/bulkhead), then #30 drill the rivet head to that same depth. 90% of the time the rivet heads comes off with this operation. then used the #40 rivet punch to punch out the rivet. most of the rivets along the longerons came out easily this way, and so I avoided elongating any rivet holes. some of the rivets (i.e. thos that were #8's and went across the cross member, took a little more work to get out. I didn't have a good 'close-in' angle drill, but I bought a 'flex' shaft drill extension from Sears and a 3/32 & 1/8" bit, and was able to use that for removing the bulkhead rivets and match drilling the doublers. In riveting on the doublers and re riveting the upper deck, I was able to use the pneumatic squeezer for all of the rivets. (some required the 4" no-nose yoke). other than removing the rivets, this was a pretty straight forward change. It took a while longer because its 112 today and that slows me down just a tad!
Tailcone opened up and right side doubler clecoed and match drilled
