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Deems RV10 Project
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Date:  11-21-2006
Number of Hours:  2.50
Manual Reference:  Sec 45-doorgap
Brief Description:  Sec 45-Door Gap

I've been going back and forth on whether to hard mount the cabin cover, so I don't have to keep taking it off an on, I'm still trying to figure out my interior treatment regarding headliner and side panels, and it will definately be easier to do all of that and the appropriate painting with it OFF. But I keep having this nagging feeling the I'm not FINISHING anything!. Oh Well, I got Judy's help and we put the Cabin cover back on the Fuse, it really only takes a little time to get it on,clecoed, and the screws set, I relieved both doors where the gas strut was interferring, hope it's enough, then I taped all of the perimeter edge of the Right door with clear packing tape to use as a release agent. and sanded the cabin cover door frame edges. Then bolted and latched the Right door to the Cabin cover. I mixed some epoxy, micro fiber, colodial silica, micro ballon mixture, and then 'troweled.squeeged' into the gap between the door and the cabin cover. the objective is to create a much closer fit that is otherwise achievable. I got this idea from Gary Foster another -1O builder who has provide me with several valuable tips to far. I only completed thaeupper 2/3's of the door/cabin, as the bottom abutts to the alum skins and I need to think that one through a little. It will cure overnight and then I'll take some sandpaper to it tomorrow. BTW, the Aft overhead vent flange looks like its going to work just fine.I
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Flox, colodial silica,micro squeeged into door/cabin gap

Flox, colodial silica,micro squeeged into door/cabin gap

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Across the top

Across the top

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Internal view of the Aft Overhead vent flange as it meets the rear bulkhead rib

Internal view of the Aft Overhead vent flange as it meets the rear bulkhead rib

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