Brief Description: Sec 45-6 and Sec 45-7 all steps Left Door
I picked up a tip from Brian Sutherland's install regarding fitting these doors and it seems to work well so I'm relaying it. 1st when you have the doors joined and clecoed to the fuse, work on getting the top of the door to fit flush with the cabin top and aprox 6-8 inches around each corner. Once you are to this point go ahead and install the hinges per the plans and hard mount the door to the cabin. Then cut off the tabs that you used to cleco the doors in place temporarily, and now you're free to work your way down the door frame sanding and removing material both on the cabin frame itself and also on the door edges. one of the problmes in trying to get a really close fit (ie no gap ) is that the cabin door frame edges are rounded quite a bit so as soon as you get the edge of the door sanded back far enough to clear the cabin frame you instantly find you have a 'gap' that's bigger than I would have liked. Similarly the bottom door sill on the cabin that attaches to the fuse comes out to the edge/flush with the fuse skins. requiring you to trim the bottom of the doors up quite some distance in order to get them to sit 'inside' the door frame. this leaves an unsightly gap below the door.The solution is after getting the doors fit all around the perimeter, and after final mounting the cabin top, to put some packaging tape on the door edges and then mix up some flox and squeege it into the gap, and then sand it flush, it will yield a perfect 'no gap' seam, and you can hand sand/finish to whatever distance you prefer. I can see that between the doors and the overhead (next week) I'm going to be swimming in fiberglass dust for some time --- ughhhh!!!!!
