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Deems RV10 Project
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Date:  5-22-2006
Number of Hours:  4.50
Manual Reference:  Sec 34-5 & 6 & 7
Brief Description:  Sec 34-5 & 34-6 & 34-7

There has been some noise on the Matronics list about the doors not sitting flush. I followed the plans steps, but the 1st hole I drilled in the bottom appeared to position the hinge too far outboard, I drilled the top hole and got it where the hinge just barely protruded beyond the skins, then went back and unclecoed the bottom hole and drilled the next one up. This one was too far inboard, so moved up to the third hole, and got what I felt was just right. deburred, primed etc. and riveted the support to the fuse, went to mount the door and discovered that 'just right' hinge placement' made it impossible to get the hinge pin reinserted as the hinges were too far inboard, so I ground back the fuse skin at the upper corner where the door hinge is enough to get the hinge pin started. Now I have a gap of ~ 3/16" at the top fwd portion of the door hinge that I'm not too happy about. I'll think of a way to hide it cosmetically. I went ahead and did Sec 35 while waiting on my door lock to arrive. This meant that I riveted the rear seat cross brace close out, but there are 4 rivets on the baggage door hinge support that you can't get to so drilled them out set the 4 rivets and reinstalled the cross brace close out. After the door was on I had some allignment issues where the top rear portion wasn't flush and the bottom rear was too far in. Used the 'Detroit Auto' method and was able to get 90% of it flush, the remainder 10% gots worked out ith the sheer grips.
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/hinge drilled, note bottome 2holes drilled for oops rivets.

/hinge drilled, note bottome 2holes drilled for oops rivets.

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Glued in some soundproofing

Glued in some soundproofing

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Here you can see the gap opened up in order to get the hinge pin inserted.

Here you can see the gap opened up in order to get the hinge pin inserted.

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