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Dave's RV-10 Build Log
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Date:  8-8-2017
Number of Hours:  6.50
Manual Reference:  
Brief Description:  Nose Gear Wheel, Prop Storage, Door Latch Covers

Adjusted the large nut on the nose gear fork to yield the drawing specified 26 pounds pull to cause it to swivel. Used an electronic luggage scale purchased at Target to measure the pull. This scale is able to be set to measure the peak pull, and is accurate to 0.1 lb so it worked very well for this purpose. With the nut tighten to the nearest flat to match the hole for the cotter pin, the pull measured 26.9 lbs, which is very close to the specified 29 lbs.

Installed the nose wheel to the nose gear fork. Since I'm using the optional Beringer wheel for the nose gear, the axel provided with the gear is different from that indicated in the drawings. Installed the tire, but didn't torque the axel bolt as I'm waiting for a 3/8" torque wrench to arrive that has the higher ft-lbs range required.

Received the assembled MT 3-Blade propeller (Part # MTV12B/193-53 at the shop today. Installed the prop to a sheet of plywood anchored to the shop wall with a 2x4 stand-off. Drilled 1/2" holes in the plywood using the flywheel (from the air conditioner kit) to determine spacing of the holes. Then inserted the prop attachment bolts (captured in the prop during the assembly process) through the 6 holes, and anchored the prop to the plywood with 1/2" fender washers and 1/2"-20 UNF nuts purchased at Tractor Supply. With the prop attached to the plywood, then attached the plywood to the dry wall using 70 lb. drywall fasteners previously located and installed in the wall for this purpose. The result is a secure prop stored out of the way and off the floor.

Created decorative covers for the 3rd latch gear box openings in both doors. Made these out of .016" T-1024 aluminum, hand bent to fit. I will paint these to match the door interior. These plates will close up the slot and holes required for inserting the 3rd latch gear box into the door, while allowing for easy removal of the gear box in the future should this become necessary.

Mixed up a small batch of epoxy/cab-o-sil and filled in a few small gaps between
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