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Dave's RV-10 Build Log
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Date:  1-22-2019
Number of Hours:  4.75
Manual Reference:  
Brief Description:  Propeller Install, Seat Heater Wires, Cowl Bumpout

Removed prop spinner and prop. Used engine hoist to hold prop while removing it and replacing it.

Removed "freeze plug" from the front of the crank shaft. Initially tried the method of hitting the plug with a ball peen hammer, but without success. Since I don't have a slide hammer, decided to try a different method:
Drilled a #30 hole in the center of the plug. Threaded a 1/4" lag bolt into the drilled hole, then backed it out. Drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of a 20" long wood 2x4, and inserted the lag bolt with a fender washer through the wood 2x4. Sprayed the plug with CRC Freeze fluid to help break the seal and lubricate the plug's removal. Re-inserted the lag bolt into the plug and tightened it until it secured the 2x4 against the front to the crank shaft. Continued to tighten the lag bolt which pulled the plug out of the crank shaft until it came free. (If needed, I would have hammered on the ends of the 2x4 to help rock the plug free, but didn't need to do this.)

Re-installed the MT Prop to the crank shaft. Will torque the bolts after obtaining the correct torque data from the prop manual at home. (Note; Proper torque for the 1/2"-20UNF bolts is 63-66 ft-lbs. Bolts to be secured in pairs with .032" stainless steel safety wire)

Installed 4 additional wires (3 ea #16, 1 ea #20) from the left seat to the panel area for the left seat heater wiring.

Found that one of the fiberglass strips I applied yesterday to bottom cowl bump out for the A/C compressor slid off the edge of the bump out and bonded to the cowl several inches below where it is needed. Used the random orbit sander with 80 grit disk to remove this fiberglass/epoxy strip.

Cut a new 1" fiberglass strip and applied it to the edge of the bump out with a thin epoxy/micro mix. Used the remaining epoxy/micro mix to build up around the rest of the bump out perimeter.
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