I dimpled all parts as instructed, barring E606PP. The instruction call for the top flange of E606PP to be countersunk so I kept it aside for the time being. Aside from one or two holes on the trailing edges of the ribs, all holes were dimpled with the pneumatic squeezer. I also refrained from dimpling the skin where it jpins to E606PP on the outbard of the trim tab bend for fear that it may interfere with the bending process later.
I then drilled E606PP to my workbench using it as a drill guide and cleco'ed it to the workbench. It worked great, holding it as tight as any clamp could. It made the countersinking of E606PP with the countersink cage a snap!
I used the countersink cage to countersink the two innermost of the E702 to E705 attachment holes on the forward face of the spar (E702). The flange on the spar does not allow sufficient room to use the countersink cage on the two outermost holes. I know some buillders have filed/ground the one side of their countersink cage flat but I didn't want to do that. As per the right elevator, I opted to rather removed the whole cage from the countersink cage and placed the countersink "sub assembly" in the drill press. I Used the two inner most, already countersunk holes to set the depth gauge on the drill press. The countersinking of the two outer holes was then basically a non-entity.
I pondered the following instruction re the countersinking of either E705 or E606PP for a while. The instructions state that the flush head can go on either side... if that's the case, why bother countersinking? Also, if it *must* be flush, why not just dimple... it's stronger that way? I then decided that this would be a good time to stop as I was getting tired and was probably missing something.
All parts (barring E606PP) dimpled as per instructions
E606PP cleco'ed to worksurface, ready for countersinking on top flange
Countersinking E702 spar on drill press as flange prevents the use of the countersink cage
